THE FREEZING COLD AND KOI

THE FREEZING COLD AND KOI

It is December now, and the Koi pond has become cold and it is freezing outside… The Koi are slow and their metabolism has clearly slowed down. What was once a place full of life and abundance has slowed down and the pond is showing the effect of winter upon us.

The fall was an event to be witnessed. The leaves were endless, and the weekend activities in raking and collecting the leaves in bunches were fun yet exhausting…. The pile of leaves was about 6 feet tall !!!! I was worried that the leaves would eventually become toxic for the beautiful Koi. The pond was covered on a daily basis… But we persevered and like a pool, we cleaned it and removed the leaves.

One thing I noticed was that the Koi became beautiful!!! Their colors really became bright, and contrasted beautifully with the environment. They also grew and looked a bit ‘fat’. This is ideal as they were all prepped for winter, full of reserves for ‘hibernation’.

As the temperature became colder, the Koi became less and less active, and stopped feeding. Some mornings I noticed a small sheet of ice covering some parts of the pond. There is no ice over the area where the filter is and where the spout from the fountain is, and the thin sheet usually melts by noon. Now that the days are shorter and there is more darkness, I also noticed that the plants and the algae have died back. The water is very clear.  The pumps were put on their lowest flow rate, and water circulation was put at a minimum.

As a physician, I cannot stop doing my routine checkups… I count them, I look at their behavior and fins… Every morning when I come to greet the Koi, I have noticed that they are all hanging out together, at the bottom of the pond, almost motionless. They rarely move, and on occasion I have seen them searching for food if the temperature is a bit warmer than usual. According to the books I have read, I am not supposed to feed them unless the water temperature is greater than 8 degrees Celsius that means the temperature of the water should be greater than 45 degrees Fahrenheit. The water temperature of my pond has not been greater than 40 degrees Fahrenheit for a while now. It has been hard for me not to feed them. How do they survive??? Another thing is that I am not supposed to ‘disturb’ them…. What? This means that I need to approach the pond slowly, quietly and gently look at them. So now I am being very careful not to upset them, as if I do, I would make them use invaluable resources and use up their well-built food reserves.

We are ready to crack open our pond heater…

Margarita Ochoa-Maya, MD

Fall and the KOI POND

Fall is coming at a fast pace. Where did the year go??? Over the summer we had a lot of fun in the heat, and quite frankly, I was a beautiful summer… We moved into our new home, and with it came 20 beautiful new pets… Our Koi.

It has been a lovely hobby and hard work at the same time. I have learned about Koi and their lifecycle. I have come to really enjoy them and the time I spend gazing at their beauty. They have had babies, and we have been excited to see them grow and find their place in the pack. One died this summer, and it was a difficult sight. No one likes death. I eagerly studied the reasons this may have happened, and was afraid it could be something that would affect the whole pond. I am happy to report that it was an isolated incident, and the rest of the Koi were fine.

I have learned about pumps, filters, streams, waterfalls, outdoor lighting, and water elements such as fountains, UV lights, and all different and sometimes expensive tools to keep a pond healthy and vibrant.  I had to revisit my chemistry books and learned about Ph, water hardness, chlorine, and chloramines from the tap water, and the ammonia and other waste products in the water. Not to mention the lovely algae… They were an interesting battle…

Another fish did get sick this season, but we were able to learn about salt, and salt baths for the fish. And, even though it appeared a bit involved Joe and I were able to treat it and nurse it to good health.

What a fun experience…..

Even our lovely neighbors participate with the Koi Pond… It is a place of love, and companionship and a place where there is always a smile.

Now that the fall is upon us, we need to get back into the books and learn what the next steps will be in order to keep the Koi Pond healthy. As you may know, the winter follows the Fall and during this time, the Koi will be very very quiet. Talk about what happens in winter, I guess we will start with the fall.

The fall is well known for its glorious leaves. They are so beautiful and colorful… I actually think the Fall is one of my favorite seasons…. But leaves and Koi ponds don’t go together. They will fall on the pond, and some will lay on the surface. Some will clog the filter, so it is important to clean the skimmer filter on a daily basis. Some leaves have to be manually removed with a net. Some leaves will even fall to the bottom of the pond. This is unhealthy as the leaves break down and decompose, they can release toxins that affect the Koi.

In our pond, we plan to use a net. As you may all know this is our first time. But the goal of the net is to avoid as many leaves falling directly on the water. We will see….

When it gets colder, we will shut down the stream as it will likely further cool the water, and if there happens to be a frost, and some icing, the water may be diverted…  possibly even causing a leak…. And water drainage….

We are planning to change the diet of the Koi fish to one that is suitable for the colder seasons, where their metabolism will start to slow down. Koi fish are Poikilothermic (cold blooded). Their metabolism relies on the temperature of the water that they live in. In the wintertime, when the water in the pond is ice cold, the Koi fish's metabolism slows down to a crawl. For this reason we have a water thermometer that we are checking on a regular basis. The water is getting colder at night and warms up slightly during the day. As the water gets cooler, the Koi will spend most of their time treading water at the bottom of the pond, while sometimes swimming around a bit. They don't sit completely still all winter because their joints can seize up.  Water reaches its densest point at 39.16°F. Interestingly, in the winter the warmest water is at the bottom of the pond. That is why Koi spend most of their time there.

In my next blog, I will share what we did and hopefully I will learn to post some pictures for your enjoyment….

Margarita Ochoa-Maya, MD

BUSY AT THE KOI POND

BUSY AT THE KOI POND

So this summer has been exciting and full of adventures…. We moved into our new home and it has been a source of love and happiness for me. We are all so happy! Our home is filled with love, smiles and the smell of summer.

Our Koi Pond has been an exciting endeavor. I kind of had to get a crash course in Koi and Pond Care, as we inherited a beautiful collection of lovely colorful fish and my responsibility gene took the best of me. I also became determined to have a lovely new hobby that would still allow me to be at home and balance my already hectic professional life, and really busy home life. I have to say, being a woman in this century has its price! I want to be independent, successful, and at the same time I have high expectations of myself as a woman and wife, mother, daughter, sister and friend…. Not to mention I really want some social time and squeeze “me” time in as well…

But the Koi pond has become a source of peace, and inspiration. Caring for them has made me use some of my skills in biology, but most of the entire pond ecosystem has allowed me to coddle my sweet and tender love of nature. Every morning I visit them and feed them. They have learned to recognize my presence, and I have conditioned them to my whistle. At first, when I whistled, I fed them. Now I whistle and wait a few minutes… They come and greet me, and flap around in excitement and anticipation. This paired with my coffee and my lovely dogs at my side, allow me to feel inner peace and joy. I charge myself for the day from the source. Source of love and tenderness than I later use in my practice, where I need compassion and patience. Doctors need a source of this…. Doctors need to understand their mission in life, to be patient and encourage people in the right path to health. My Koi Pond has been a source of this, and I never thought it would be that simple.

So I would like to share with you my friends. I have several beautiful Koi…

THE WHITES (5)

1.       White Short Tail Medium to Large (White Fang)

2.       White Long Tail large, ? blind (White Eyed Queen)

3.       White Long Tail medium (Solitude Standing)

4.       White Long  Tail medium to small with a light orange tint (Creamy Estrogen)

5.       White and orange tint all over baby small (Nemo Baby)

WHITE AND ORANGE (5)

1.       White and Orange where the front half of the body is orange and the back half is white, short tail Large (Orange Crush)

2.       White and Orange and a couple of black dots- Small (Cindy Crawford C- Alice)

3.       White and deep Orange with three distinct spots over the dorsal fin and red eyes, long tail, Medium to Small (Seminole Amylin)

4.       White and Orange with a black and grey back with some spots (Calico) Medium to  Small, small tail (Flea-Ina Lymer)

5.       White and orange all over the top and back, white belly medium to long white tail- Not a Koi – Very Large Goldfish (Chubby Diabetes)

CALICO (3)

1.       Calico medium to small long tail  (Larry Hope)

2.       Calico medium to small long tail  (Moe Charity)

3.       Calico medium to small long tail  (Curly Faith)

BLACK  (1)

1.       Large all black with orange specs throughout the body (Shaft Testo).. Don’t mess with Shaft….

ORANGE (3)

1.       Large all Orange with black specs and short black tail Medium (Denver Progesterone)

2.       All deep red orange with long white tail Medium (Seminole Deep)

3.       2/3 Orange white belly medium short tail  (White horse Glucagon)

NOVELTY (2)

1.       Black, copper, and white marks through the dorsum and sides (Skeleton Insulin)

2.       White with orange and black marks short tail  (Royal Hormone)

Every day, I will say hi to them on your behalf…. Join our New Hampshire Garden and Koi Club, and we can all learn more about these lovely Koi and about caring for a pond in New Hampshire…. I am lovin’ it!

Margarita Ochoa-Maya, MD

Koi Health

Beautiful Koi fish come from the common carp, and have been bred to have such beautiful colors and patterns. The common carp is a tough fish and for the most part it can survive in very poor water conditions and host a serious parasite population without getting sick. But because our modern day koi have been selectively inbred to produce the beautiful colors and shape that we all love, they have lost much of their ability to endure such harsh treatment.

The good news is that even despite their inbreeding, Koi fish seldom get sick and die without a reason. I recently had one die and I was devastated. I needed to know the reason it died. I was also unsure if there was a bigger problem I had to tackle, and if other Koi in my pond would suffer the same fate. So naturally, I went to the books and did some research.

The common reasons Koi fish die are as follows:

1.      Poor water quality

2.      Parasites

3.      Ulcers and disease of their fins and skin

4.      Predators

5.      Lack of oxygen

6.      Medication overdose or water over treatment

7.      Jumping out of the water

8.      Viruses

9.      Toxic pesticides or chemical fertilizers

10.  Tumors

The first three are the main cause of poor health in 70% of the cases.

POOR WATER QUALITY

Like the air we breathe, water is of paramount importance to fish in general. Poor water quality can be lethal to a Koi, and it would not be a surprise to see all the Koi in the pond die overnight… Now that is what I call a nightmare!!!!

The most popular issues with water are low oxygen, and high ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels.  There are commercial water kits that can and should be used regularly to test the quality of the water. Pumps and filters are all useful to maintain proper water quality.

PARASITES

Parasites are a kind of bug that can be given from one fish to another. The main cause of a parasite infection is when a new fish is introduced to the pond. Before a new fish is introduced to the pond, it should be quarantined, or set aside from all the other fish for at least 3 weeks. During this time period the Koi should be observed and treated for parasites. Always try to find out where your fish came from, and make sure the ‘dealer’ is open about their parasite policy, and treat their Koi for parasites and is parasite free before selling it. It is recommended that you do not take their word for it, but instead ask about their ways in treating parasites, and so forth. If they are not straightforward, assume that you need to treat your new Koi yourself.

BACTERIAL INFECTIONS

The two most common bacteria that cause problems on koi fish are Aeromonas and Pseudomonas.

These bacteria hate chlorine and thus are not present in tap water, but on the other hand, both Aeromonas and Pseudomonas are common inhabitants of ponds. They live naturally in pond water. If you add tap water to your pond, the chlorine in it is usually treated as it can be toxic for the Koi, and chlorine usually evaporates within a couple of days. It is no surprise that your pond would have these bacteria. Normally, in a clean healthy pond, the levels are very low, and the slimy coat that covers the fish protects them from the bacteria.

Bacteria become a problem when the slime coat that covers the fins – skin of the fish is broken and the bacteria then have access to cause infection. For this reason it is important to monitor your Koi’s movements, skin and general appearance. Bacteria can grow very easily if not treated right away.

 I hope you will find this helpful when considering Koi Health.

Margarita Ochoa-Maya, MD

KOI KEEPING OUTDOORS, WHAT IS NEEDED TO KEEP HEALTHY HAPPY KOI OUTSIDE….

KOI KEEPING OUTDOORS, WHAT IS NEEDED TO KEEP HEALTHY HAPPY KOI OUTSIDE….

An outdoor garden pond is the ultimate setting for fully appreciating the beauty and elegance of Nishikigoi. The best way to keep happy and healthy Koi is to do it right, no shortcuts. The environment is extremely important to maintain a healthy and happy stock.

When thinking about a Koi Pond, it is important to start with the basics:

1.       Pond maintenance

2.       Equipment needed

3.       Water Quality

4.       Aeration, oxygen

KOI POND MAINTENANCE

Koi pond maintenance is a vital task that every Koi keeper has to undergo regularly. If everything is going well, regular maintenance shouldn't take more than a few minutes once a day (as in feeding the Koi) and perhaps an hour or so once a week.

1.       Material and debris should be removed regularly

2.       Water level should be checked regularly

3.       Fresh water should be added as needed to remove waste buildup (nitrates)

4.       Equipment should be inspected and repairs should be done

5.       Filters should be cleaned regularly, flushing the filters to remove solid debris

6.       Regular water testing should be performed and logged in a journal

7.       Additives to replace vital trace elements

8.       Inspection of the Koi for vitality, and health issues

EQUPMENT NEEDED

The optimum environment for Koi is a recirculating system that has good filtration, both mechanical and biological. As a new Koi pond owner, there may be many supplies that are needed to properly maintain the pond and the Koi.

Given that the pond is outdoors, and Nature is unpredictable, it is best to be prepared.

These are the most common supplies needed for a properly functioning and beautiful Koi Pond:

1.       Pump

2.       Filters

3.       Test kits

4.       Dechlorinator and other pond conditioning equipment

5.       Pond salts and Baking soda

6.       Pond Net

7.       Method of transport for Koi

Pump- A pump is essential to the health of a Koi pond. It will keep the water moving because if the water is not moving, the water can get very unhealthy very fast. Moving water can also be from waterfalls, fountains, and other water features, but in no way should completely replace your pump.

Filters- Having a working filter is essential for removing unwanted pollutants, and maintaining proper water quality. If you do not have a proper filter, water quality issues can occur, which in turn will cause your fish to have health issues.

Test Kits- You should test for the basic water quality parameters as often as possible, especially when starting up with a new Koi pond. Good test kits are available from most pet and Koi stores. Invest in a decent one and then stick to the brand to ensure consistency across all your measurements. You will need to test ammonia and nitrites on a weekly basis to ensure proper water quality. Emergency tests may also be needed in the event that you notice discrepancies in your Koi behavior or in the water. Keep a log of your test results. It can save a lot of trauma later. The actual readings themselves are not as important as a deviation from those readings! But if you do not know you pond's long term 'base line' you won't know when things have gone out of kilter.

Dechlorinator- Tap water contains chemicals that can potentially harm Koi fish. When adding new water for any reason, you must add Dechlorinator to eliminate these chemicals.

Pond Salt and Baking Soda- Pond salt and baking soda are used to regulate pH and Nitrate levels in the event that you find a discrepancy. Pay close attention to the amounts you are supposed to add to the pond, which depends on size and the issues you are currently having.

Net- You will need to have a net sizeable enough to compete with your Koi. You will never need the net to pull the Koi out of the water with, but you will need it to lead and direct your Koi into the place you want them. Nets can potentially damage your Koi, especially as the larger they get.

WATER QUALITY AND MAINTENANCE

Understanding water quality is of vital significance for the wellness and health of your Koi. It is best to understand what is happening inside the pond in order to be able to achieve good water quality and be a successful Koi keeper.

Koi fish are interesting; they interact with their watery environment on a continuous basis and with considerable intimacy. Koi are a product of the watery environment in which they live, and proper water maintenance will ensure minimal problems in the future.  Good water quality is not necessarily crystal clear water, and clear water is not a guarantee of good water quality. On the other hand, murky water may or may not be of good quality. Bacteria are inevitable, but as usual, bacteria, fungi, and viruses can must be kept in check, and the water needs to be free of poisons.

Koi produce two types of waste - inorganic ammonia and organic solid wastes. Organic compounds are simply those chemical compounds that contain carbon. Water is such an excellent solvent that it can dissolve some organic compounds. Inorganic compounds do not contain carbon. An example of an inorganic compound is ammonia. Ammonia is produced by Koi and is completely water soluble. The goal for a healthy pond is to have a zero level of ammonia. Ammonia is not seen, and for this reason it is important to have a good quality water test kit that measures important parameters such as these.

Good water quality will have no dissolved waste organic or inorganic compounds. It will also have no waste solid organic compounds. In other words, good quality water will have zero waste.

THE MAIN COMPONENTS TO MEASURE AND KEEP IN MIND WHEN KEEPING THE WATER QUALITY AT ITS BEST:

1.       Water Ph

2.       Chlorine and Chloramines

3.       Heavy Metals

4.       Water contaminants

5.       Algae

6.       salt

Water pH

The pH of a healthy Koi pond should range between 6 and 8.5. This is acceptable for most pond life. Ammonia and nitrites are the primary concern when it comes to water pH, as they have a direct relationship to the toxicity of the water.  Each pH number above the neutral 7 reflects a tenfold increase in excess ammonia and nitrates. Any pH value below the neutral 7 is considered acidic.  Baking soda or ground limestone will raise the pH level. Any pH values over 8.5 will definitely stress the fish to the point of disease. Some causes of elevated pH are bricks or untreated mortar blocks used as plant pedestals which may be washing in leeched lime which can cause severely high pH readings.

Ammonia, Chlorine and Chloramines

It is not uncommon for city water to test positive for ammonia straight out of the tap. City water suppliers are more frequently adding ammonia to combine with chlorine to product the longer-lasting chloramines.  Chlorine and chloramines are harmful to fish and will kill the beneficial nitrifying bacteria in the pond.  Likewise, they may burn or kill aquatic plants.  Chlorine is a volatile gas that will dissipate with water circulation and exposure to the air within one or two days.  Chloramines, however take much longer to break down.  When adding chlorinated water to the pond, spray it in with a hose to provide the necessary aeration for dissipation of the gas.

There are products like Sodium Thiosulfate that will remove chlorine from water and also pull chlorine from the chloramines.  A stock solution of four ounces of Sodium Thioslufate crystals to one gallon of distilled water makes your stock solution.  One drop per gallon (50ml per 1,000 gallons) will safely de-chlorinate your pond.  Make sure to use a test kit to monitor your ammonia levels carefully.  High ammonia levels cause disease, and death.

Heavy Metals

Well water may contain copper and iron and ferrous bicarbonate. This can be detected when a brown precipitate forms when the water is aerated.  Besides being mildly irritating to the fish, ferrous bicarbonate stains equipment and causes water to become cloudy.

E.D.T.A. (Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acidic Acid) can be used to chelate out any heavy metals such as iron or copper from the water.  To make a stock solution with EDTA, use 1 teaspoon and mix it with 4 ounces of distilled water.  Shake well.  Then use 2 drops of this stock solution per gallon of pond water.  EDTA will lower your pH, so care should be used when adding it to the pond.  We suggest taking a pail of water out of the pond, check the pH and then add 2 drops of EDTA per gallon of pail water.  Mix the water well and then test the pH once again.  The maximum amount per day that the pH may be dropped is 0.2, any more can pH shock the fish, make the fish stressed and cause a disease outbreak in the pond.

Contaminated Water

Run-off water from a nearby stream, or collected rainwater may contain toxic insecticides, herbicides or fertilizers.  Rainwater from metal roofs or asbestos shingles will contaminate the pond and may prove toxic to both the fish, and the plants.  If the fish display signs of toxicity, execute a 50% water change and/or remove the fish to safe quarters, or a hospital tank until the water has been changed.

Acid rain may produce stress in water lilies.  Immediately following to a heavy rainfall, the lily leaves may show signs of burning at the edges or abrupt yellowing.  A partial water change may be needed after such rainy periods if the pH readings are lower than the neutral 7.0 range.

White foam at the waterfall entry of the pond is a sign of a high level of dissolved organic compounds.  Do some partial water changes and add some Aqua Gold to the pond to handle the high organic load.

Algae and weeds

Green water is caused by really small algae – teeny tiny nanometer sized single celled plants. Yes… Algae are water plants. Algae can form incredibly quickly, particularly in warm weather. They put oxygen into the water during the day and take it out again at night. Algae replicate at the speed of lightning, causing the pond to be off color – often a light grey, a light brown to green or even completely green. This can happen almost overnight.

Algae is unsightly because as it makes the water cloudy it tends to interfere with being able to see the Koi, enjoy them and properly check for disease. Koi, per se, don’t really mind the algae, they can even get quite comfortable with it.

While algae can be a frustrating problem if you have a swimming pool, it is often a welcome addition to koi ponds since it absorbs both nitrates, phosphates, and other minerals from the pond water; provides protection for developing koi fry (babies); and also gives the mature koi a source of food to nibble. It also aerates the water and provides the fish with much needed oxygen. Blanket weed and string algae can form a blanket, thus the name, over the surface of the water, it doesn't need a solid surface to attach itself to.

When the weather cools, growth dies down. There are various products on the market that you can use to control algae -but do make sure that it is not toxic and won't harm you beloved Koi. The best way to take care of algae and make the water clearer is through using an ultraviolet light. There are many commercial varieties that you can choose from.

Adding Pond Salt to Your Pond

Adding salt to the pond is safe as long as you know the amounts to use. Salt can control algae, detoxify nitrites, kill parasites and behave as an antiseptic for Koi.  Salt is a great item to use for your water quality, but first... you need to know how much to add.  We feel that a 0.1% continual salt bath is a good level to run at all the time.  To achieve this level, add 1¼ ounces of salt per 10 gallons of pond water.  

AIREATION AND OXYGEN

Excellent water quality is not only free from wastes but it should have good dissolved oxygen content. Oxygen plays a vital role in maintaining a healthy pond environment. Fish need oxygen to breathe and water rich with oxygen allows efficient biological filtration. A stable pond environment with clean and clear water depends on oxygen. The only one place where oxygen is able to get into the Koi pond in any meaningful quantity is through the surface of the pond where the pond meets our atmosphere. For this the reason the water at the bottom of the pond has the least amounts of oxygen, where it is furthest away from the surface. This explains why fish under oxygen stress gasp at the surface of the Koi pond.

To avoid unnecessary stress on your fish, incorporate oxygen tests as part of regular routine maintenance. Testing is the most accurate way to determine if there is enough oxygen in your pond. However, there are several cues that can alert you of low oxygen content in your pond. Pay attention to the following signs for early detection and timely correction of potential problems:

1.       Fish gasping at the surface - Fish gulping near the surface, or at the entry of a water stream, or other water feature are likely oxygen starved. Pond fish such as goldfish and Koi thrive in oxygen-rich waters and are not tolerant of low oxygen levels.

2.       Foul odors - In poorly oxygenated ponds decaying vegetation, excess fish waste, and other organic matter can emit distinct smells. A strong "lake" smell may indicate poor water circulation, filtration, or aeration.

3.       Aggressive algae growth - A thick layer of filamentous or string algae suggests excess algal nutrients, including carbon dioxide in the water. Ponds without active aeration or gas exchange provide ideal growing conditions for troublesome algae.

The easiest way to improve the oxygen content in a pond is to increase water movement or to add an aeration device. When water tumbles vigorously over rocky streams and waterfalls, it comes into greater contact with air. Harmful gasses are released and oxygen is incorporated into the water. Pond aeration devices such as water fountains, bubblers, and spitters break the water surface to encourage gas exchange.

KOI FOOD AND KOI WASTE

Take care not to overfeed. The more you feed the Koi the more ammonia they produce.  They also produce significant quantities of solid organic waste, some of which dissolves into the water. Too many Koi can also become a problem, and overstocking can be dangerous.

SUMMARY

Regular maintenance ensures that the operations of the Koi pond are kept stable. It gives you the opportunity to spot any potential problems before they become critical problems. It gives you the opportunity to inspect your Koi pond equipment and your filtration systems, and of course it keeps you on the pulse of what is happening in your Koi pond.

Healthy tips to maintain healthy oxygen levels include:

1.       Remove waste - Decaying matter uses up oxygen. Use a net to skim the surface debris before it sinks. Remove leaves and settled debris from the bottom of your pond on a regular basis.

2.       Provide shade - Floating water plants are a fast and easy way to provide shade. Water that is cool in temperature is able to hold onto more oxygen than warm water.

3.       Plant the right plants - Add a mixture of plants, including marginal plants, floating plants, and submerged plants to help decrease algae growth. Oxygenating plants help increase oxygen level and improve water quality.

4.       Maintain proper filtration - Clean pond filters regularly, especially before departing for vacation. A clean filter works more efficiently to provide vital water movement and waste-removing filtration.

5.       Adjust oxygen levels to match fish population - Fish are a joy in the pond, but keep in mind, a heavily populated pond will require more oxygen. If your bio-load is high, then make sure you have enough aeration devices to maintain proper oxygen levels.

6.        Exposed water surfaces - During the winter, it is important to keep a small portion of the pond surface from freezing. Use an aeration kit or de-icer to maintain a small opening in the ice. This opening allows gas exchange and prevents buildup of toxic gases.

7.        Fresh, clean water - A partial water change, no more than one-third at a time, can replenish oxygen and improve water quality. Remember to use a de-chlorinator if you use tap water that contains chlorine or chloramine.

Thank you for reading,

Margarita Ochoa-Maya, MD

LEARN MORE ABOUT KOI FISH...

Learn more about Koi Fish….

In Japanese, Koi is a homophone for another word that means "affection" or "love"; and thus, Koi fish are symbols of love and friendship.

One could think that Koi fish are a version of goldfish but there are distinct differences. Goldfish were developed in China more than a thousand years ago by selectively breeding Prussian carp for color mutations favoring yellow, orange, white, and red-and-white colorations.  Goldfish were introduced to Japan in the 16th century and to Europe in the 17th century. Koi, on the other hand, were developed from common carp in Japan in the 1820s. Koi are domesticated common carp (Cyprinus carpio) that are selected and bred for color; they are not a different species, and will revert to the original coloration within a few generations if allowed to breed freely.

In general, goldfish tend to be smaller than koi, and have a greater variety of body shapes and fin and tail configurations. Koi varieties tend to have a common body shape, but have a greater variety of colors and color patterns. Some goldfish varieties, such as the common goldfish, comet goldfish, and shubunkin have body shapes and coloration that are similar to koi, and can be difficult to tell apart from koi when immature. Since goldfish and koi were developed from different species of carp, even though they can interbreed, their offspring are sterile.

Koi have prominent barbels on the lip that are not visible in goldfish. Koi fish are also called nishikigoi in Japan and it translates to what means literally "brocaded carp". Koi fish are domesticated common carp. Carp can be of a dull grey color, but there are some varieties that have bright ornamental colorings and are kept for decorative purposes in outdoor koi ponds or water gardens.

Historically, carp fish were originally found in Central Europe and Asia. In East Asia, various carp species were domesticated and used for food. Once they noticed the ability of carp to survive and adapt to many climates and water conditions, the domesticated species were propagated to many new locations, including Japan. More than a thousand years ago in China, they started to breed carp for their color mutations and size, and these breeding experiments led to the development of the common goldfish.

Koi varieties are distinguished by coloration, patterning, and their scales. While the possible colors are virtually limitless, some of the major colors are white, black, red, yellow, blue, and cream.

Koi also have several categories, the most popular category of koi is the Gosanke, which is made up of the Kohaku (red and white), Taisho Sanshoku, and Showa Sanshoku varieties. There are newer varieties such as the Ghost koi which was developed in the 1980s. Also in the 1980s the Butterfly koi also known as longfin koi, or dragon carp are quite popular for their long and flowing fins. Some koi enthusiasts criticize this overbreeding and don’t consider some varieties as not true nishikigoi. At the end of this blog I will list the most common names for the different varieties that are common today.

Koi fish are hardy and durabile. Koi are cold-water fish, but benefit from being kept in the 15-25 °C (59-77°F) range, and do not react well to long, cold, winter temperatures; their immune systems "turn off" below 10°C. Koi ponds usually have a meter or more of depth in areas of the world that become warm during the summer, whereas in areas that have harsher winters, ponds generally have a minimum of 1.5 meters (4½ feet).

Koi's bright colors put them at a severe disadvantage against predators; a white-skinned Koi is a visual dinner target against the dark green of a pond. Herons, kingfishers, otters, raccoons, cats, foxes, badgers and hedgehogs are all capable of emptying a pond of its fish. A well-designed outdoor pond will have areas too deep for herons to stand, overhangs high enough above the water that mammals cannot reach in, and shade trees overhead to block the view of aerial passers-by. It may prove necessary to string nets or wires above the surface. A well-kept pond usually includes a pump and filtration system to keep the water clear.

Koi are an omnivorous fish, and will eat a wide variety of foods, including peas, lettuce, and watermelon. Koi food is designed not only to be nutritionally balanced, but also to float so as to encourage them to come to the surface. When they are eating, it is possible to check koi for parasites and ulcers. Koi will recognize the persons feeding them and gather around them at feeding times. They can be trained to take food from one's hand. In the winter, their digestive systems slow nearly to a halt, and they eat very little, perhaps no more than nibbles of algae from the bottom. Care should be taken by hobbyists that proper oxygenation and off-gassing occurs over the winter months in small water ponds, so they do not perish. Their appetites will not come back until the water becomes warm in the spring. When the temperature drops below 50°F (10°C), feeding, particularly with protein, should stop or the food can spoil in their stomachs, causing sickness.

Koi can live up to 47 years old. There is a famous scarlet koi, named "Hanako", owned by several individuals, the last of whom was Dr. Komei Koshihara. Hanako was supposedly 226 years old upon her death in 1977.

Koi reproduce through spawning in which a female lays a vast number of eggs and one or more males fertilize them. Koi will produce thousands of offspring from a single spawning. Nurturing the resulting offspring (referred to as "fry") is a tricky and tedious job, usually done only by professionals. Although a koi breeder may carefully select the parents they wish based on their desired characteristics, the resulting fry will nonetheless exhibit a wide range of color and quality.

Here is a list of the major named varieties:

1.       Kohaku: White-skinned koi, with large red markings on the top

2.       Sanke, Taisho Sanshoku or Taisho Sanke: White skinned koi, with large red and small black markings called sumi

3.       Showa Sanke: Black skinned koi with red and white markings

4.       Tancho: any koi with a solitary red patch on its head

5.       Chagoi: Tea-colored koi coloration can range in color from pale olive-drab green or brown to copper or bronze and more recently, darker, subdued orange shades – famous for its docile, friendly personality and large size, it is considered a sign of good luck among koi keepers.

6.       Asagi: pale greenish koi known for its light blue color above and usually red below, but also occasionally pale yellow or cream, generally below the lateral line and on the cheeks

7.       Utsurimono: Zebra color pattern markings black koi with white, red, or yellow markings.

8.       Bekko: White, red, or yellow skinned koi with black markings, Shiro Bekko (white and black), Akka Bekko (red and black) and Ki Bekko (yellow and black)

9.       Goshiki:  is a dark koi where the base color can range from nearly black to very pale, sky blue and it has red patterns.

10.   Shusui : means "autumn green"; was created by crossing Japanese Asagi with German mirror carp. The fish has no scales, except for a single line of large mirror scales on its back, extending from head to tail. The most common type of Shūsui have a pale, sky-blue/gray color above the lateral line and red or orange (and very, very rarely bright yellow) below the lateral line and on the cheeks.

11.   Kinginrin: is a koi with metallic (glittering, metal-flake-appearing) scales. The name translates into English as "gold and silver scales"; it is often abbreviated to Ginrin. There are Ginrin versions of almost all other varieties of koi, and they are fashionable. Their sparkling, glittering scales contast to the smooth, even, metallic skin and scales seen in the Ogon varieties.

12.   Kawarimono: is a "catch-all" term for koi that cannot be put into one of the other categories. This is a competition category, and many new varieties of koi compete in this one category.

13.   Ogon: is a metallic koi of one color only. The most commonly encountered colors are gold, platinum, and orange. Cream specimens are very rare. Ogon compete in the Kawarimono category and the Japanese name means "gold.

14.   Kumonryu: This word literally means "nine tattooed dragons". The koi  is a black doitsu-scaled fish with curling white markings. The patterns are thought to be reminiscent of Japanese ink paintings of dragons. They famously change colour with the seasons.

15.   Ochiba:  is a light blue/gray koi with copper, bronze, or yellow (Kohaku-style) pattern, reminiscent of autumn leaves on water. The Japanese name means "fallen leaves".

16.   Koromo: is a white fish with a Kohaku-style pattern with blue or black-edged scales only over the head pattern. Hikari-moyomono (光模樣者?) is a koi with coloured markings over a metallic base or in two metallic colours.

17.   Kikokuryu: literally "sparkle" or "glitter black dragon" is a metallic-skinned version of the Kumonryu.

18.   Kin-Kikokuryu: literally "gold sparkle black dragon" or "gold glitter black dragon" is a metallic-skinned version of the Kumonryu with a Kohaku-style hi pattern.

19.   Ghost koi: Is a hybrid of Ogon and wild carp with metallic scales, is considered by some to be not nishikigoi.

20.   Butterfly koi is a hybrid of koi and Asian carp with long flowing fins. Various colorations depend on the koi stock used to cross. It also is considered by some to not be nishikigoi.

21.   Doitsu-goi:  originated by crossbreeding numerous different established varieties with "scaleless" German carp. The most common type has a row of scales beginning at the front of the dorsal fin and ending at the end of the dorsal fin (along both sides of the fin). The second type has a row of scales beginning where the head meets the shoulder and running the entire length of the fish (along both sides). The third type is the same as the second, with the addition of a line of (often quite large) scales running along the lateral line (along the side) of the fish, also referred to as "mirror koi". The fourth (and rarest) type is referred to as "armor koi" and are completely (or nearly) covered with very large scales that resemble plates of armor.  

Hope you enjoyed learning more about beautiful Koi…

Margarita Ochoa-Maya, MD

The New Hampshire Koi and Garden Club was founded June 2012 after the founder, Dr. Margarita Ochoa-Maya, was surprised with her new home and new Koi pond. The new Koi Pond was a new inspiration and a fresh new start at a fascinating hobby that certainly required some learning. In order to do so, Dr. Ochoa-Maya decided to look for a local Koi and Garden Club and was disappointed when she was not able to find one. She thought that by starting a new Koi Club in the area, she would not only generate enthusiasm towards this lovely hobby, but also meet people with similar interests and learn more about Koi and Koi Ponds and Water Gardens as it was likely there were more people in New Hampshire with a Koi Pond that would benefit from getting together.

We expect that as the club meetings get on their way, people will enjoy seeing and learning more about Koi Fish, Koi Ponds, and Water Gardens.